Cape Columbine Lighthouse, Paternoster, West Coast, South Africa

CAPE COLUMBINE LIGHTHOUSE  

Paternoster, West Coast, South Africa

Latitude   32° 49’ 39” S      Longitude   17 ° 51’ 23” E

Senior Lighthouse Keeper - Japie Greeff

Lighthouse Official - Wayne Brown

Standing on the ship’s bridge with the consistent rise and fall of the ocean swell, one looks landward and sees a windswept headland. This massive granite boulder is Castle Rock and, clinging like a limpet on the rock, stands the comforting sight of the uniquely-designed Cape Columbine Lighthouse, commanding sweeping views across the Atlantic Ocean.  For those on the bridge of a ship, or a sailor at the helm of his fishing boat or yacht, this tall, buttressed tower and powerful light, provides a dependable guardian for this treacherous section of coastline.

The Cape Times edition of 5 October 1936, reported,

‘There is no part of the South African coastline more dreaded by mariners than the uncertainties of Paternoster, for there are more hidden dangers than at any other locality. Heavy gales and a dangerous and confused sea are encountered through many months in the year and when the wind is not blowing, a fog obscures the whole coastline.’  

I recently had the great pleasure of meeting both Japie Greeff and Wayne Brown in the lighthouse on Castle Rock.  Japie, a man of strong character and integrity, proud and serious, is totally committed to duty, yet with a delightful sense of humour.  Having been a dedicated Lighthouse Keeper for the past 40 years and one of the last to man a light, Japie has made a substantial contribution by providing safety to yachts, fishermen and ships.  The light has guided them with their precious cargoes, passengers and crew when navigating the long, rugged and often extremely dangerous South African coastline.

Reflected in his face were his many proud years of endurance and resolve. The harsh realities of isolation and loneliness, danger and wild weather, and on occasion, shipwrecks and loss of lives, tests one’s courage and strength of character.

Japie entered the Lighthouse Service on 2 July 1979 at Diaz Point Lighthouse, Lüderitz, Namibia. In subsequent years, he was stationed at Dassen Island, Cape Recife, Cape Point and Pelican Point and took charge as Senior Lighthouse Keeper at Green Point Natal, Cape St Lucia and Cape Columbine. Some of these stations were very isolated and, essential to all Lighthouse Keepers, was the support of family and colleagues, with occasional visits from friends. Keeping constant vigil, exposing him to many unexpected and different situations, his duties would have ensured the searching beams of the lighthouses uninterruptedly swept out across the sea, guiding mariners along their coastal routes.

After chatting with Japie, he introduced us to Wayne, his Lighthouse Assistant, who had been his colleague for many years.  Of interest too, in the visitor reception, were the glass-fronted cabinets displaying Japie’s model aircraft, which had been assembled and painted as a hobby during the free hours in his days.  Our party, including my husband and his cousin, was privileged to be taken on a tour of the immaculately kept and lovingly cared-for interior of the tower.  Everywhere exuded a pride in presentation.

Japie led the way into an inclined passageway of highly polished, wide, green, stairs, connecting the Lighthouse reception room/shop to the foot of the Lighthouse.  The ceiling was gleaming; varnished wood and the side walls were hung with numerous identically-framed photos of various South African Lighthouses. As an aside, Cape Columbine Lighthouse (80m above sea level) was designed by H.C. Cooper, who also designed Cooper Light on the Bluff in Durban (137m). 

Our first stop was the foghorn compressor room with the original equipment which, unfortunately is no longer operational, but still enjoys attention shown in the immaculately maintained paintwork.  A modern electrical foghorn is erected on a large tower a short distance from the lighthouse. An Automatic Identification System (AIS), a tracking system for identifying and locating vessels by electronically exchanging data, is installed in the tower, making this the first Lighthouse to have had all three technologies – light, foghorn and AIS - installed during construction. The foghorn is a critical safety component when the dense West Coast fog rolls in. For those sailors finding themselves enclosed by this all-enveloping fog, the regular, haunting sound of the foghorn will guide them away from the dangers of the shoreline. One appreciates that this warning will have saved many lives along this coastline. Thinking of the past, we remember the drowned sailors and unfortunate castaways whose ghosts may still wander the coastline.

The first two levels in the lighthouse are accessed by steep, narrow wooden ladders with no handrails and a trapdoor set into each floor.  As we climbed step-by-step, we were following what each Keeper had been doing day-after-day, whilst going about their duties since October 1936. 

At the second level, we continued our climb up the short, steel, spiral staircase into the lantern room where highly polished brass fittings gleamed and the sun’s ray’s refracted rainbows of colour within the multi-layered Fresnel lens. Gone were the days when the Keeper had to polish the many individual lenses regularly, after being coated with black soot from the burning oil.  Today, the brilliance of the lens, so devotedly cared for, scattered light from the sunbeams streaming through the windows of the lantern room.

At an elevation of 80m above sea level, we had an exceptional and expansive view across the Atlantic Ocean to the clear line of the horizon. One wanted time to stand still as the captivating aura of the lighthouse set high above the ominous black shoreline rocks below, contrasted with the picturesque miles-long white beach as well as the stark inland landscape.  Our imagination took us to the months ahead, when the semi-desert dunes would be transformed by the seasonal blossoming of the desert flowers, transforming this dramatic landscape into a colourful pageant of flowers.

Thank you Japie for a most memorable experience.

Suzanne-Jo Leff Patterson

Footnote:

SV Columbine the British wooden sailing ship launched in 1824, was on a voyage from London to the new British colony of Sydney, New South Wales, Australia, with a cargo of mixed goods, beads and religious books. On 31 March 1829 the Columbine ended her days of voyaging when, in the middle of the night she was storm-driven onto the reef 1.5 km north of Cape Columbine Lighthouse.

Cape Columbine Lighthouse, Paternoster, Cape, South Africa

Cape Columbine is well known for its lighthouse, the last manned lighthouse built on the South African coast. The Cape Columbine Lighthouse was commissioned on October 1, 1936. Both the headland and lighthouse derive their name from the Columbine, a barque wrecked 1.5 km North of the lighthouse on March 31, 1829. 

Cape Columbine Lighthouse is situated on a prominent headland ±5 km from the picturesque fishing village of Paternoster (meaning Our Father) deriving its name from the heartfelt prayers of shipwrecked Portuguese sailors. The lighthouse, built on rising ground at Castle Rock, and usually the first lighthouse sighted by shipping coming from South America and Europe, is about 30 km from Vredenburg on the West Coast.

• First South African Lighthouse to receive three navigational aids: light, a fog signal and a radio beacon.
• First lens system designed for use with a 4 kW incandescent electric lamp.

Several ships were wrecked in the area, which is known for its multitude of submerged rocks and reefs.

• Columbine 1829
• Ismore 1899
• SS Saint Lawrence 1876
• SS Lisboa 1910
• SS Haddon Hall 1913
• SS Malmesbury 1930
• Haleric 1932
• Da Gama 1979
• SS Columbine 1944 (Torpedoed)

The Columbine Nature Reserve surrounds Cape Columbine Lighthouse. On the southern side of the lighthouse is Tieties Bay. 5 km away is the fishing village of Paternoster. The coastline is well known for its sea life, especially for crayfish and abalone. Langebaan Lagoon, the West Coast National Park and a Fossil Park.

As the sun sets on the days of manned Lighthouses, Japie Greeff, as Senior Lighthouse Keeper at the Cape Columbine Light, will be one of the last men to follow the rigid routines demanded of them every day, to ensure that the Light is turned on at twilight.

Japie Greef at Cape Columbine Lighthouse

Acknowledgement: Suzanne Jo-Leff Patterson

Cape Columbine Lighthouse

Date commissioned:  1 October 1936

Architect/builder:  HC Cooper

Primary structure material of construction:  Square masonry tower painted white, with red lantern house.

Height of tower:  15 metres

Character of light:  One flash every 15 seconds

Heritage status:  Being older than 60 years, the lighthouse is protected under the National Heritage Resources Act 25 of 1999.

Inhabited/manned:  Yes (Keeper: Japie Greeff)

Open to public:  Yes

 

Cape Columbine Lighthouse is situated on a prominent headland 5km from the picturesque fishing village of Paternoster (“Our Father”), deriving its name from the heartfelt prayers of shipwrecked Portuguese sailors.  The lighthouse, which is built on rising ground at Castle Rock and is usually the first lighthouse sighted by shipping coming from South America and Europe, is about 30 km from Vredenburg on the West Coast.

 

The lighthouse was named after the barque Columbine which was wrecked there on 31 Mar 1829.  Several ships were wrecked in the area, which is known for its multitude of submerged rocks and reefs.

 

The Last of the South African Lighthousekeepers: Japie Greeff

 A series by Suzanne-Jo Leff Patterson - 2015, October

Japie Greeff at Cape Columbine Lighthouse
Photo: Keri Harvey – www.keri-harvey.com

In another of his anecdotes, Japie Greeff, who is currently stationed at Cape Columbine Lighthouse, continues to delight us with his interesting recollections of his first involvement with a sea rescue, whilst he was stationed at Cape Point Lighthouse.  

 I was on the morning shift and just about to be relieved, when a radio   broadcast came through from Cape Town Radio of a storm warning, reporting a north-westerly gale gusting to 50 knots with heavy swells up to 8 meters. Fishing vessels were at sea catching crayfish near Cape Hangklip, which is approximately ten miles off Cape Point.  The skippers, on hearing this warning, made ready to head directly for the nearest harbour. 

 Facing large swells and roaring winds whilst returning to a safe harbour, suddenly, without warning, one of the fishing vessels suddenly sprang a leak in the bow.  A hull plank had been battered loose and the vessel started taking water – fast! I radioed the skipper and told him to swing to stern and keep steaming astern towards the Lighthouse, whilst I notified the South African Navy. It was necessary for me to call upon the Navy, as the National Sea Rescue Institute (NSRI) vessel would not have been able to handle these conditions. The Navy immediately deployed a Strike Craft and despite battling heavy swells and high seas, their excellent team work and co-ordination, had the fishing crew rescued and taken back to safety within two hours! 

 Some weeks later, we met with the rescued skipper and his crew for drinks at the Ski Boat Club. He told us they were so grateful for the fast response from all involved in rescuing them from such dangerous seas, but unfortunately, their fishing boat had been lost when it sank just next to the Lighthouse.  

 Whilst under the threat of sinking and struggling to save his boat, the skipper could not believe that the simple maneuver I had instructed him to follow, of turning his ship to stern to avoid the bow taking excessive water, had saved all their lives.    

Last of the South African Lighthouse Keepers: Japie Greeff

Cape Columbine Lighthouse

Our next Lighthouse Keeper of interest is Japie Greeff, who has experienced several appointments around the coastline and is currently stationed at Cape Columbine, near Paternoster in the Cape Province.  As the sun sets on the days of manned Lighthouses, Japie, as Senior Lighthouse Keeper, will be one of those last men to follow the rigid routines demanded of them every day, to ensure that the Light is turned on at twilight.

Japie commenced his lighthouse career at Diaz Point Lighthouse, Luderitz, Namibia, in 1979 and as a matter of historical interest, Diaz Point is named after Bartholomew Diaz, the Portuguese Captain who took shelter in the bay and was first to sail around the Cape of Good Hope in 1487-1488. 

Diaz Point Lighthouse

The Diaz Point Light overlooks a cold sea, fed by the northerly running Benguela Current bringing nutrients from the Antarctic.  With the up-swelling of the rich nutrients along this foggy western coast, it delivers the food that feeds some of the world’s largest shoals of fish.  This bounty has attracted a fishing fleet which is based in Luderitz Harbour.

As well as the management of the Light and being technical men, their expertise was in demand and they were called on to perform other local duties.  On one such day, Japie had an interesting experience . . . .

“I was sent to replace batteries for the channel buoys in the harbour in Luderitz, which is the town approximately 27km from Diaz Point.  By the time I had finished the work I had been sent to do, a ‘Transvaaler’ from Johannesburg had launched his speedboat to go and catch crayfish.  At the Lighthouse, I told the guy that the sea is rough on the outside as you pass the outside of the harbour.  He just took one look at me as if to say, ‘You don’t know what you are talking about?’

I shook my head, thinking a speedboat is only meant for rivers and dams and certainly not for the sea. I went across to see the Harbour Master and told him about this guy, because it is a speedboat and is not made for the sea, but only for dams or rivers, but he told me not to worry, that they knew what they were doing because they had been fishing for many years and were experienced.

I then phoned the Lighthouse Keeper at Diaz Point to be on the lookout for the so-called ‘experienced fishermen.’

The wind was blowing at 25 knots and off they went.

By the time I arrived at the Lighthouse, the speedboat was taking water and was adrift!  The Lighthouse Keeper called for assistance from a local fishing vessel to rescue the men, because we did not have Sea Rescue in Luderitz.

Two days after they had been rescued, the ‘Transvaaler’ came to the lighthouse to say ‘Thank you’ for the help they had been given, with a bottle of whiskey. 

The Senior Lightkeeper told him,

“If your life was depending on whiskey, then take this bottle with you and get the hell off my station!  If you do not listen to what my Keeper told you, then go and drown yourself!”

We never saw or heard from the ‘fisherman’ again!”

Still at Diaz Point, and on a less serious note, Japie also shares this amusing anecdote with us.

“In those early days, we installed our own generator plant as we had no electricity supply and had three four-cylinder, and two two-cylinder Ruston motors.  We discovered that some Cape Sparrows, or better known to us all as ‘Mossies’, were actually breeding in the exhaust pipes.  Every year in the month of November, we were besieged with black Mossies flying around the Lighthouse!

One day we had a visit to the Lighthouse by a student from the University of Cape Town. On sighting the ‘black birds,’ he became really excited, telling us that he was studying birds and declared these to be a very rare species!  Convinced that he had hit the jackpot, he made copious notes about these unique birds, to report to his Professor and headed back to Cape Town.

Unbeknown to us at the Lighthouse, arrangements were underfoot and the next thing we knew, the student, his Professor and a film crew were flying up from Cape Town!

The Professor started asking questions, keen to see where the birds were breeding.  I took them around to the generator, started up the engine and after two puffs, out flew the black rare birds!

‘This is where they breed,’ I told the Professor.

An annoyed Professor, film crew and a crestfallen student returned to Cape Town with some explaining to do!

Japie Greeff, right, and assistant

A series by Suzanne-Jo Leff Patterson

August 2015

Cape Columbine Lighthouse

Cape Columbine Lighthouse by Helen Pfeil


The last manned lighthouse to be constructed, this lighthouse was built in 1936.
Cape Columbine is a headland five kilometres from the village of Paternoster in the Western Cape. The sea in the area is dotted with white caps, tell-tale signs of submerged rocks and reefs. Britannia Reef to the north is probably the most dangerous.

As usual in the 19th c, though the need for a lighthouse was recognised, there were other pressing demands on the colonial purse, and ships continued to founder off Cape Columbine, including the Lisboa which struck Soldiers Reef in October 1910, the Heleric which foundered off Great Paternoster Point in 1932 and other vessels. Nevertheless the provision of a light remained in abeyance for thirty years.

Cape Columbine light first illuminated the environs on 1 October, 1936 on a site selected by H Cooper, a huge outcrop of rock locally called Castle Rock. The beacon is not the usual sort of tower but a slightly squared tower with the outer faces of the walls recessed, forming heavy buttresses on the four corners. Cooper not only designed the lighthouse tower he also acquired the optic, the fog signal and the radio beacon. This was the only occasion in the history of South African lighthouses that a navigation aid made up of all three safety features - light, fog signal and radio beacon - was installed as a complete unit.

The optical apparatus, designed by Chance Brothers, was the first lens system in SA which had been designed for use with the 4 k w incandescent electric lamp. All prior installations had been designed for wick or petroleum vapour burners.