Wednesday, June 10, 2015

The Last of the South African Lighthouse Keepers 2


by Peter-John Hannabus (P-J) – Retired Lighthouse Keeper 1970s

From the 1800s to the late 1970s, fifty three manned stations spanned the South African coast, before automation slowly forced the Lighthouse Keepers out of their cottages and away from their unique way of life.

The Hannabus Dynasty entered the Lighthouse Service in the early 1900s and covered eighteen lighthouses between them, stretching from the east coast at Cape St. Lucia Lighthouse, Natal, at position 28°31´08´´S., 32°23´50´´E, to the opposite west coast at Diaz Point in Luderitz, Namibia, at 26°38´11´´S, 15°05´37´´E.

Born at Cape Agulhas Lighthouse, P-J grew up in an environment with characteristics and influences at play, which attracted him to follow in the footsteps of his father, his uncle and his grandfather.

P-J’s duties, often as a Relief Lighthouse Keeper, took him from coast-to- coast exposing him to many different situations. Drawing on these experiences, plus stories handed down and childhood memories, he provides us with a window into the world of these men.

Bird Island Lighthouse Eastern Cape Lat 33°50´29´´ S. Long 26°17´13´´E.  is a familiar name to P-J, where his grandfather, A.E. (Bill) Hannabus, started his career in 1906 and in the 1950s his uncle C.H. Hannabus was also stationed there for a period. This story from P-J, recorded in the history of Bird Island, reflects tragedy, but also immense courage and bravery from the Lighthouse men, their wives and children.

One Saturday morning on February 1st, 1919, Mr. Abbott, a guano foreman and his assistant, were fishing in a longboat off the island. Around midday a strong sou ‘westerly wind came up, whipping up the sea. Abbott’s stepdaughter, Frances, worried for their safety, climbed onto the roof of their cottage and saw the men battling the wind to get back to shore.  Frances raised the alarm and all three of the Lighthouse Keepers, Hayward, Hughes and Ward, rushed to their aid in another longboat.

Once out to sea, a fog enveloped the three Lighthouse Keepers and they were lost to sight fighting wind and waves. Just before dark, the wives who had no idea how to operate the Light, together with the children, gathered all the lamps in the houses and took them up to the lighthouse lantern room to guide the husbands back and to warn ships on this stormy night! The families took turns to rotate the lens throughout the night with still no sign of the men. About midday the next day, the men made it back to shore but alas, without Abbott. He and his assistant were never found.

In recognition of the bravery of the Keepers, Harry Claude Lee Cooper, the esteemed Lighthouse Engineer, awarded the men gold watches and the wives received crafted handbags!

These are just part of the large band of lighthouse men and women whose brave deeds prove their commitment to their duties, irrespective of the risks to their own lives.

Whilst we are still on Bird Island, an intriguing similarity has come to my attention.

In 1884 Thesen and Company of Cape Town purchased their first coastal steamer in Norway and brought her out to the Cape. This was the SS Agnar, an iron vessel of 427 tons. The Agnar soon found a place for herself in the trade between Cape Town, Mossel Bay and Knysna and after five years a second steamer the SS Ingerid joined her. The Agnar and Ingerid sailed regularly between Table Bay and Knysna and before long they enjoyed a virtual monopoly of the steamship traffic to the little port. (Ships and South Africa by Marischal Murray)

From 1920 to 1928 Agnar loaded guano on Bird Island.  Strangely similar in shape and design to the SS Waratah, which disappeared off the Transkei coast in 1909, Agnar was a very much smaller vessel. The Agnar also met her fate by disappearing without trace twenty nine years later, between Madagascar and Mauritius. With thirty four souls aboard, a cyclone had raged across her track and she never reached Port Louis. All that was ever found was a damaged hatch cover. A tragic end to those poor souls on a hardworking little steamer.










Monday, June 8, 2015

The Last of the South African Lighthouse Keepers 1

A series by Suzanne-Jo Leff Patterson

A long dynasty of Lighthouse Keepers stands proud in our South African history. Some families have had three generations follow one another and here, close to home, from the late 1860s to early 1880s, Rosemary Dixon-Smith’s own great-grandfather, Thomas Gadsden, was Keeper of the Bluff Light Durban. In the late 1870s he was promoted to Head Lightkeeper and alongside him, as Assistant Lighthouse Keeper, was his brother-in-law, D W Bell.

In this series of anecdotes to preserve the manned history of South African lighthouses, as well as to recognise and honour our Lighthouse Keepers and those closely associated with lighthouse life, we hear evocative stories from their ancestral lines and from our few remaining, active, Lighthouse Keepers.

The Lighthouse Keepers had to be men of resilience, often supported by their wives, children and colleagues.  Men of strong character with total commitment to duty, Keepers and their families would face the harsh realities of loneliness and isolation, danger and wild weather, and on occasions, experience shipwrecks and the loss of lives.

It is this solidarity and the common purpose of these men and women that brings to mind the Latin inscription which I read on the etched glass panels set into the heavy cedar door of Cape Byron Light, New South Wales, Australia: 

“Olim periculum nunc salus” - Once perilous, now safe.  




Along every coastline, these men and women have kept vigil at the numerous lights around the globe. Throughout the world on stormy nights, with howling tempests, their nocturnal duties have ensured that those searching beams have swept out and across the sea, guiding sailors along their coastal courses. Many a captain would have felt a sense of relief in sighting a light after the deep darkness and dangers of foul weather.

These lights, with their engaging, resilient and dependable structures, fully exposed to all the elements, stand firm against screaming winds and thunderous seas, defying Nature’s wildest tantrums. Bearing testimony to this durability was the Lighthouse of Alexandria which, having been built in the 3rd century, stood for nearly 1,500 years. This is the maritime history that is nearing its end, as the men and women of these South African lighted towers continue to be replaced by the mechanical automation of our modern technology.  Their stories are part of each of us and before they are lost, we will record them for posterity.

To be continued.








Friday, June 5, 2015

My lighthousekeeper ancestor




When my great grandfather, Thomas Gadsden, arrived in Natal on the barque Priscilla in 1863, there was no lighthouse on the Bluff – the wooded promontory which sheltered the harbour of Port Natal, later named D’Urban.

Despite numerous shipwrecks in the area, especially during the settler ship era of the 1850s, and the pleas of the town’s inhabitants, no beacon had yet been erected as an aid to navigation. Whether Thomas noticed the lack of a light on the Bluff in the early days of his arrival is not recorded, and in any case his priority at that stage was to find gainful employment. He acquired the position of turnkey at the Durban gaol, probably not a well-paid occupation and certainly without much job satisfaction. It seems likely that Thomas would look around in the hope of more suitable employment.

The British colonial government finally overcame its reluctance to provide a lighthouse for the Port and the foundation stone was laid on 22 November 1864. However, with various delays impeding progress, it wasn’t until two years later that the structure was completed in October 1866. During that time, Thomas had undoubtedly become acquainted with the famous Port Captain, William Bell, whose daughter Eliza Ann would later be Thomas’s wife, and there must have been many an unofficial discussion on the topic of the new lighthouse.  Whether Thomas went through normal bureaucratic government channels, making application for the position of lightkeeper, with his father-in-law to be putting in a good word for him, or whether Bell had more influence in the matter, is uncertain. There’s no question that Thomas’s future looked much brighter: he would have a reasonable and regular salary and an extra perquisite in the shape of a keeper’s cottage.


Opening of the Bluff Lighthouse 1866

As far as we know, Thomas had no experience of lighthousekeeping, though he may have had some maritime knowledge which would come in handy. His mother Mary Ann Gadsden had been part-owner of at least one vessel, the Susan, which is on record as having been involved in a collision with another ship on a voyage between Liverpool and Waterford, Ireland, in the 1830s.  In any case, as soon as Thomas was appointed as keeper of the Bluff lighthouse he would be given very detailed instructions as to what was expected of him. He would soon discover that lighthousekeeping was no sinecure.

At that time, Natal was a fledgling colony, its population diminished in numbers since a downturn in the economy during the 1860s had led to some of the settlers of the Byrne years leaving for fresh pastures in Australia, or even returning to England. The town was still a straggle of unpaved streets and most houses were of wattle and daub, tough some public buildings, such as the Court House, were of stone.




The Bluff was sparsely populated, densely wooded and inaccessible other than by boat across from the Point or via a track constructed by Richard Godden for conveying building materials. Therefore, the lighthousekeeper would not be in easy reach of such civilization as existed below in the town of Durban. Provisions of all kinds would have to be brought by boat and then hauled up the steep hill to be offloaded at the lighthouse. Another serious matter was the lack of fresh water, which also had to be carried in barrels for the use of the keeper and his family. Thomas wrote to the authorities in some distress concerning the water problem. It would not be completely resolved for some time and would have drastic results for one of Thomas’s children, Phillip, who died in infancy of typhoid (a water-borne disease rife in the Colony until well into the twentieth century).

Hunting was good, the Bluff being home to various species of buck as well as monkeys, birds and other wildlife. The sea was at Thomas’s doorstep and like most keepers he would have spent some of his spare time fishing.



View of Durban and the Bay from the Bluff, as Thomas Gadsden would have seen it.

Unfortunately, Thomas left us no written record of his years as keeper, though gradually a picture has been built up of what his life must have been like. It was in many ways idyllic, looking out over the beautiful Bay with its continual stream of shipping, happy with his lovely wife and their growing children and kept busy with his duties. His brother-in-law, Douglas Bell, became Assistant Keeper for some years. The keepers worked in shifts and there was plenty for them both to do, keeping the equipment maintained and everything shipshape and well-polished. Failure to keep the light burning throughout each night would result in instant dismissal.

How Eliza Ann adjusted to the somewhat isolated life, near the town but not of it, is not clear. The shock of losing her eldest child, Phillip, must have been severe, though infant mortality at the time was generally high. She had two further sons and two daughters, but like most mothers never forgot her lost first-born.  We know of his existence only through his baptismal record in the St Paul’s register. From the time of Phillip’s death Eliza Ann’s health slowly deteriorated and Thomas, anxious about her, began to suffer from stress.

The constant night watches took their toll on Thomas's own health and he made several applications to be removed from his lighthouse duties and be given other employment.
After an argument with the then Port Captain, Alexander Airth (William Bell had died in 1869) Thomas was dismissed from his post. He pleaded to be reinstated, writing that he and his wife and children were reduced to living in a tent on the Bluff.

His plea went unheard. This disaster took a further toll on Eliza Ann’s health. Eliza Ann’s widowed mother was in no position to assist the little family as she had been left in straitened circumstances after Bell’s death: George Cato, Bell’s old friend from Cape sailing days, continued to pay Bell’s salary to his widow until her own death.

Records show that Thomas’s position changed to that of Timekeeper for the Harbour Board and he remained in that post until his death on 25 October 1893 at the age of 54.

Eliza Ann survived him by seven years. Their eldest son William married, had a daughter and died of enteric at Verulam in 1900 in his early twenties. Of the other siblings Faith and Hope both married, and Sydney Bartle was the only one of Thomas's children to continue the Natal Gadsden line, with the appearance in 1910 of William Bell Gadsden, named for Eliza Ann's father, the Port Captain. 

The lighthouse remained as Thomas Gadsden knew it until July 1922, when improved optical apparatus was introduced. Some ten years later came the installation of electricity, and the iron tower, considered by then to be unsafe, was encased in concrete. After seventy three years in service, the old Bluff Light shone for the last time on 15 October 1940 and the following June the lighthouse was demolished. 


















Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Lightkeeper





The Lightkeeper

My task to keep the light
Burning clear throughout the night.
Beyond, the wild unfathomable sea.
Invisible below, even to me,
The jagged reef lies still and dark,
Its prey the unsuspecting barque
Which blindly strays too near.
No sound can reach me here.
Encapsulated in the glass
I watch the lantern's steady pass,
From north to south and back again
The beacon shines through mist and rain.
But in the dark night of my soul
No friendly beam to keep me whole.
My daughter lies across the shore.
Her laughter I will hear no more.



The poem was suggested by a line in a keeper's log:
'This morning I rowed my little daughter's body across to shore for burial.'


The Lighthousekeeper's Daughter by Norman Rockwell


'Their task to Keep the Light ...' 2


Cape Agulhas Lighthouse

I was delighted to read the article written by Peter-John Hannabus.  My father, D M Stewart, was a lighthousekeeper at Cape Agulhas at the time Peter-John was born, and in fact, if I recall correctly, my mother helped with his delivery. The nearest hospital was in Bredasdorp -25 miles of rough gravel road away. In those days (1954), Agulhas was still  pretty remote.

At the time, I attended the Rhenish Girls' High School in Stellenbosch as a boarder and came home on holidays every school quarter That in itself was a whole day's travel by train, and then from Bredasdorp station a road trip by grain truck to Agulhas.

My sister was born at Cape Point, and I was born at Cape St Francis, and  as children we lived around the coasts of Kommetjie, Dassen Island, Danger Point and Cooper Light on the Bluff in Natal. Our school holidays were quite unique and the envy of our school friends. 

While stationed on Dassen Island, we were brought by tug from Cape Town docks to Hout Bay where we anchored and from there, believe it or not, by long boat to the jetty - us still in our navy and white school uniforms and hats, among the food supplies, equipment, spares etc. What wonderful holidays those were. We fished, collected penguin eggs and were never bored for a minute..

As Peter-John so correctly states, it is indeed the end of a great era and how fortunate we were to be part of it.

Helen Pfell








Acknowledgement:
Suzanne Jo-Leff Patterson, researcher